Anyway. On to India. My first impression was brown: through the airplane window all I could see of Delhi was a disorganized patchwork of brown dusty buildings as far as the eye could see. As we came off the plane, we passed a “welcome torch” – an ornate golden pillar carrying a candle with the elephant god blessing it – the first taste of a culture vastly different from my own. We were met by Nidhi’s father and uncle, who’d brought me flowers (that didn’t survive the trip, sigh) and they took us to the bus station. Crowded, hot, and loud is my summary of that place. We stood in line for the air conditioned coach bus that would take us the 6 hours to Chandigar where we would change busses and take another to Solan, Nidhi’s city. But the bus was full, so we had to take the budget bus, you know, the one that’s falling apart with dirty, rattley windows and seats that have seen better days, maybe those of Queen Victoria. But it was fun, it was an adventure, and I entertained myself by trying to read the Hindi signs (Nidhi had taught me the alphabet in Duino), until I got tired and fell asleep.
When I wasn’t sleeping, I was staring out the window, both to find easy Hindi words to read, and to take in the astonishing surroundings. I think I can describe my impressions with colors: the women all wore such bright dresses, seeing a group of them was like walking into one of those Hippy Flower Power pictures – orange and lime green and blue and pink and teal and magenta, all dyed as bright as the could come – even the men were colorful, because all the Seik men wore brightly colored turbines, I never thought I’d see a guy in a pink turbine, but there he was on the bus, perfectly respectable, with a grey beard and a knowing eye and … a pink turbine. And the busses and trucks were all brightly painted with designs and messages “Blow Horn!” “Use Dipper At Night!” “India is Great!” and stuff like that. And flowers and pictures of gods everywhere…
The other color, or rather absence of it, was the grey/brown of the buildings. I’ve never seen a city in such disrepair. I thought that the few people living with their kitchens open to the streets in Vietnam were terribly poor, but that was the general standard of living in Delhi, that or one room brick house/apartments that were obviously falling apart. And these were the middle class, as Nidhi said. What were the lower class living like? Of course I saw that too, people cooking chapattis (the Indian staple food, like a tortilla but smaller and thicker, they have it breakfast, lunch and dinner) on open fires in the streets and then retiring to corners to sleep, people digging through the endless piles of trash to find recyclables with flies buzzing around their heads, people burning cow dung for fuel because fossil fuels are too expensive.
The thing is, though they were all obviously very poor, they seemed perfectly happy. It’s one of the things I’ve discovered, both by experience and because everyone says it: Indians have very little, but are some of the happiest people on the planet. They are content with what they have, and have such a strong community (especially in the villages) and are so generous that they don’t need anything more. It makes me wonder why we westerners have such trouble with depression and materialism. I mean, sure, I like my laptop – without it you wouldn’t be reading this – but do I really need it, or anything else I have? How essential is running water? Everyone here bathes with buckets and cups, and it seems unnecessary now to have a full-blown shower, and such a waste of water.
After about 4 hours though, our bus died. So we all clambered out and waited on the side of the road for another bus, which came after not too long, and we clambered on (a lot more crowded now) and went another 2 hours and then that bus broke down too, so we all got off again. Nidhi was so embarrassed (“this never happens. Really!”) but I was having fun – an adventure on my first day! Nidhi’s dad went and found a car and so we were driven the rest of the way in a tiny car that took hairpin turns at breakneck speed while passing huge trucks. Way fun.
Solan, Nidhi’s city, is in the middle range of the Himalayas, so not too high, not too low. Lots of mountains everywhere and misty clouds and tiny bumpy roads. I’ll post pictures when I can. Her family is wonderful. Her mother and grandmother cook fabulously (spicy Indian food eaten with your hands – I’m actually getting quite good at it, you use your chapatti as a spoon and dig in, it’s still strange though, to have no forks…)And her little brother and sister are really cute (but a little shy with their English, hopefully they’ll get over it. And in the meantime, I’m working on my Hindi.)
These are just my first impressions. More to come in the ensuing weeks, I’ll tell everything, but maybe a bit later than it should be, internet is not as accessible as it was at home…
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